The Sarpech and Kalgi ...... A Symbol of Power and Conquest

The Sarpech also known as an aigrette is a turban ornament worn on the Indian Subcontinent by Hindu and Muslim Kings, Princes, Noblemen and Heads of Tribes. Dominantly two kinds of turban ornaments exist: Sarpech and Kalgi

The 'SAR' means 'head' and 'PECH' means screw. Together it means an ornament fixed to a turbaned head by a screw like device. The Sarpech consists of two ornamental parts. The "Jigha" or a bejewelled plume and a horizontal band or 'patti'. This plume is synonymous with the allegory "a feather in the cap" denoting elevation in status because of valour, or a courageous, charitable, noble deed; also supremacy in campaign. Hence it was usually worn by men in powerful positions. 

Before the Mughal Invasion of India the Sarpech consisted of just a horizontal bejewelled band fixed to the turban. It was used by Rajput kings and Princes as a mark of Power and Royalty. 

This Patti or band was cast in gold with a design of flowers or motifs encrusted with a few precious gems.

The Mughals brought the Jigha to India. This was the turban ornament worn by the Mughal Emperors. It was a bejewelled plume fixed to the turban of the Emperor, but as soon as the Jigha was introduced to India this piece of jewellery underwent a change and keeping with the Mughal penchant for gems and jewels, a more elaborate horizontal bejewelled band of the Rajput Patti, was incorporated with the Jigha. The entire piece was now referred to as the Sarpech.

The Jigha worn by the Mughals was a beautiful piece of jewellery. It was encrusted with emeralds rubies and diamonds and other precious gems. The Mughals appreciated all gems in their pure uncut form and used these jewels to embellish their repertoire of jewellery. 

Turban ornaments formed one of the most important symbols of power at the Mughal court. Both Kings and Queens of the Mughal Empire wore turbans fixed with the bejewelled Jigha.  The Jigha was worn exclusively by the emperor, his family and entourage. It was a symbol of royalty or royal favour and the presentation of a Jigha indicated imperial approval.

The above picture shows a Jigha set with uncut diamonds, emerald and rubies. The ornament on the reverse is set with elegant gold floral enamelled decoration on a green ground, a receptacle for a feather (Kalgi)

 In Punjab the Jigha was known as the Kalgi. Punjabi royalty sported the Kalgi atop their Sikh turbans. Maharaja Ranjeet Singh's persona was synonymous with the Kalgi. This elaborate creation evolved from the earlier Mughal practice of pinning a heron's feather or Kalgi to the front of the turban. Attaching a pearl to the end of the plume so that it curved backwards gracefully was a style introduced by the Mughal Emperor Jahangir. 

During Emperor Shah Jahan's reign the simple plume underwent a transformation into an elaborate gem-studded creation incorporating some of the treasury's finest jewels. As befits a symbol of power and prestige, the turban ornament was made of valuable materials, with gems in kundan settings. Enamelling was used to decorate the back of turban ornaments, probably from the mid-17th century onwards. A significant feature of the ornament was the plume of heron feathers placed in the small socket (parkhane) at the back of the jewel. The Sikh rulers of Punjab were renowned hunters and hence the Kalgi with the heron feathers in the parkhane was a prestigious representation of their hunting prowess.