A halo is an energy field semi-circling the crown of the head. Usually it is supposed to be the energy field of Gods and Goddesses. That is so because a halo is supposedly a visible glow emanated by spiritually exalted and awakened personalities. In India the cultural artistry of an ancient people took them to depict Gods and Goddesses wearing a bejewelled gold halo in the form of a crown which was called a Mukut. The Mukut down the ages came to be worn by the Kings as they were a representation of the power of God among the people they ruled.
The Kings and Emperors of yore wore an entire cap like conical head gear or Mukut with a half moon like frontage which ended in a pinnacle short of the top of the conical cap. The weight of the entire piece with precious metal and gems had to be such that it appeared heavy and intimidating, but actually had to be light weight so as to ensure that the Imperial Head was not uncomfortable in any which way. This solid yet intricate ornament was crafted by experienced jewellery craftsmen of the highest grade.
Mukuts were cast in Gold, encrusted with beautiful and precious gems. The more powerful the King and the kingdom he held sway over; the more intricate and detailed would be the designs and worth of a bejewelled crown.
The Indian Mukut or Crown is different from its Western counterpart that usually has a velvet or satin fitted cap added to this precious headgear. The Mukut was a solid Gold headgear with rubies diamonds, sapphires and emeralds bejeweling it. The top of the conical cap was usually emblazoned with a rare single diamond while the pinnacle of the half moon frontage held a smaller gem; maybe a ruby or emerald or sapphire. Both gems held a position of their own; one not overshadowing the other. Also there were strands and rows of pearls either forming an intricate border to the Mukut or hanging in bunches on either side like showers of dew drops.
Vassals and Rajas also wore the Mukut but only the half moon semi-circular diadem like piece. The full Mukut was only worn by Emperors and Kings of the most Powerful Kingdoms of the land. If a vassal or Raja dared to wear the Full Mukut then it was mandatory for the King to wage war against the imposter to establish his supremacy in the region.
The Mukut was at one time an essentially Royal Kingly ornament, but soon it transformed into the headgear for brides in certain parts of India.
As a common man was not allowed to wear a Mukut for its Regal value forbade it; this crown found its way into the bridal essentials of women from wealthy families. The bridal Mukut is essentially just a delicate diadem feature of the elaborate Mukut. In different parts of India the Mukut worn by brides had different features.
In Bengal the Bridal Mukut was made of the pith of the Sala tree, but the Zamindars and the petty Rajas made Mukuts of Gold encrusted with gems for their daughters.
The brides of Jammu and Kashmir wore a Mukut called Chaunk Phool in the centre of the head. It had three to four chains or strands of gold or pearls on either side that ended in a bejewelled flower pendant to be secured with an inbuilt hook just above the ears. The traditional Chaunk Phool was usually made in Gold or Silver but with innovation and economic progress of families it underwent precious changes.
The Chaunk was a bowl shaped ornament in gold worked intricately with rubies and diamonds.
Also here the masculine appearing Mukut was broken into two or three different ornamental elements adorning the head of a bride to give it a feminine touch. These elements were called by different names. Two small Chaunks were usually attached with bejewelled chains to the central Chaunk Phool and hung behind the ears. There were other ornaments called Chiri, Philigiri and Bandiyan which were an extension of the Chaunk Phool attached by gem encrusted chains to lay flat or dangle at the forehead. Many Chaunk Phools were either worn singularly or with any one of these smaller elements attached to it.
An elaborate Chaunk Phool was one which was attached with all the smaller ornaments i.e. Chiri Bandiyan and Philigiri.
The Chaunk Phool of Jammu and Kashmir was called the Saggi Phool in Punjab.
All these various derivations of the Mukut or Crown also had an essential practical purpose; they had the top of the bridal veil affixed to the pinnacle of the ornament to cover the head. A North Indian Bride cannot have a head bereft of the veil or chunni even for a moment during the wedding rituals.
Glittering in gold and encrusted with precious emeralds, rubies, pearls and diamonds these bridal Head pieces were no less than a Royal Headgear!
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