Bhor ...... The Crowning Glory

The Bhor is a head ornament. It consists of a round disc or ball encrusted with jewels. It is suspended by a central chain attached to a hook. Sometimes it also has two other chains on either sides of the ornament. The central chain is hooked onto the hair at the back of the head while the side chains are fixed to the hair above the temples. This piece of jewellery sits right on the edge of the hairline where it meets the forehead.

This ancient ornament was generally worn by married women but over the ages for its decorative quotient it is now worn by women of all ages especially in Rajasthan; the land of its inception. 

The reason for the creation of this piece of jewellery has many facets to it. 

The positioning of the ornament is right on the forehead which is the frontal lobe of the brain. 

 The frontal lobe plays a large role in voluntary movement. It houses the primary motor cortex which regulates activities like walking.

The function of the frontal lobe also involves the ability to project future consequences resulting from current actions, the choice between good and bad actions (or better and best) (also known as conscience), the override and suppression of socially unacceptable responses, and the determination of similarities and differences between things or events.

The above proves the advanced knowledge of the ancient Indian people before the introduction of modern science. 

All scientific realities in India in those times were explained within the premise of religion and God. 

The ornament Bhor was a sacred salutation to the perceptions and keenness of brain function which was interpreted as the Seat of God. 

As the woman would be carrying the 'family jewels' so to say; an aura of sanctified reverence had to be created to protect her. To add to this; it had to be a mature woman who felt responsible for the survival of her family hence this piece of jewellery belonged to the repertoire of the married woman. 

The Bhor in its inception was a simple silver or gold disc but as man became more progressive in business and farming the concept of the Bhor too took on more expensive and unique forms. From the simple disc it elevated its status to being crafted with diamonds, rubies, emeralds and other gems set in gold. The skills and designs of the craftsmen and gold smiths were given a larger canvas to work with. 

The glittering gems were encircled with seed pearls to bring out the radiance of the encrusted jewels. The chains and hooks on all three sides changed from silver to gold. 

From farms and travelling Diaspora to the durbars of Rajasthani Palaces the Bhor found a place of high esteem. 

In today's emancipated progressive Indian society; the Bhor is worn with pride at glitzy and opulent Big Fat Indian Weddings throughout the country!

Origin and History of the Ornaments Of India

As man progressed from caves, to civilizations, to societies; his need for awareness of organizations, value systems and assets took on new dimensions. He realised that the way to progress and growth was precious and in order to achieve his goal he had to conserve his wealth. 

This was way before the establishment of currency. 

In all civilizations the way of accumulating wealth was hoarding of precious gems and jewels. But how could they protect and safeguard their wealth?                                                                               
In the Indian Civilization there were mostly tribes or nomadic people who were constantly on the move. And hence the creation of ornaments was born. Both men and women wore ornaments but more so the women. The patriarchal systems of India knew that the way to protect their wealth was to adorn the persona of a woman and the rest would be taken care of by vanity. 

Each woman according to her status; whether a queen, the chieftain's wife or the woman of a well to do farmer, carried on herself the wealth of her household. 

Thus grew the industry of combining precious metals with precious gems. Because of the vanity quotient in the mental make-up of a woman her desire to look beautiful and sparkling was a prime factor. She had to be satiated when before a mirror, or any kind of reflection, or other women.

Thus the brilliant idea of ornaments was born. 

There was also a careful assessment made for the well-being of the woman as she was to carry this precious cache. Ancient metaphysical, planetary, esoteric and medical influences were taken into account while creating and crafting of ornaments for each body part. Thus were created different kind of ornaments for different body parts. 

In Rajasthan existed the nomadic tribes constantly on the move; ornaments had to be sensibly divided on the body of a woman so as to be able to carry their weight easily when she migrated with the Diaspora. 

This ancient culture of ornaments have become an integral part of the jewellery of India used till today with variations to suit the presiding trend of the fashion industry.

India is known for its unity in diversity in all walks of life since the inception of its civilization. Be it religion, language, food, clothing, jewellery or way of life. Each region and now State of India is inimitable to the other. At the same time there exists an amalgamation which is Indian or India!

In this segment of blogs we will be discussing various ornaments from various regions of India; detailing them from head to toe. 

The influence of culture, history, wealth, skill, security and external impressions on each ornament will be elucidated and presented.

Setting aside all else the prime factor being the beauty and vanity of the Indian Woman!

Garnet

Garnet is a deep red to maroon coloured gem stone which traces its discovery back to the Bronze Age!

Later in the 14^th century a Middle English word gernet crowned the gem with an identity by naming it garnet a derivative of gernet.

It resembles the seeds of the fruit pomegranate; similar to their shape and size. Thus in Latin it is derived from "granatus, fromgranum" meaning "grain seed" This reference makes sense as small garnets look like the bright red seeds you find inside a pomegranate. The garnet has been a popular gem throughout history and worn as jewellery by both men and women.

Garnets were highly popular in Europe, in 18th and 19th centuries. They were frequently used for jewellery in the Victorian times. In Old Spain, the pomegranate was a favourite, and as a result of this, so was the garnet. In Spanish astrology, the garnet once represented the sun. In ancient times, garnet was known as"Carbuncle," which relates to the colour and refers to a boil or blister. This name was also applied to other red stones, but to the garnet in particular.

The King of Saxony is said to have had a garnet of over 465 carats. Plato had his portrait engraved on a garnet by a Roman engraver. Bohemia, now a part of Czechoslovakia, was once a tremendous source of garnet, and at one time, cutting, polishing, and mounting garnets was a very rich industry in that country. Many Bohemian castles and churches had magnificent interiors decorated with garnet. Bohemian garnets are famous even today, known for their small but beautiful stones set close to each other resembling a pomegranate. Garnet jewellery is still found in the Czech Republic, with the stones still arranged in the traditional, tightly joined way. This ensures that the attraction of the classical Garnet pieces is caused only by the beauty of its stones. The Anglo-Saxons were also fond of garnets. Their jewellery was set with garnets mounted in many forms.

Garnet is best known in a deep red variety but is commonly found in orangey brown and wine red shades. A flawless, clear green garnet is one of the most beautiful and expensive gems in existence. Demantoids are softer than other types of garnets. A green garnet of over five carats is rarer than an emerald in the same size. The fire, or sparkle, of such a garnet is even higher than that of a diamond; however the brilliance is masked by the colour, so a white diamond shows more fire to the eye. A large clear garnet is hard to find. The larger gems, as with other gemstones, are usually flawed, cracked or of poor colour.                                                                                                                                               

Garnet is one of the few untreated gems. It is available in many colours and offers great versatility it can also be mistaken for other, usually more expensive gems. The red garnet may be mistaken for a ruby, while the yellow type may be mistaken for precious topaz and the green garnet may be mistaken for an emerald.

Today, the Mozambique variety of garnet is quite popular. Originating in the East African nation they are named after, Mozambique garnets are known for their high quality and wonderfully warm, red colours. Garnets are found in Africa, India, Russia, South America, Madagascar, Pakistan, and the United States.

Garnet is the birthstone for January, and the gemstone for the second anniversary. While most people know the January birthstone as a maroon red colour, garnet is a large family of gemstones which occur in every single colour, except blue. You'll find the gem in colours such as orange, pink, yellow, green, violet, and others. 

Garnets make a great gift because they offer enough colour varieties to suit everyone's taste, as well as an outstanding price range to suit everyone's pocketbook. Wearing red garnets, because it is the colour of blood, is thought to promote good circulation. Garnet is also said to give its wearer guidance in the night and protection from nightmares. Legend holds that Noah hung a large garnet in the arc for illumination.

Garnets have been mined in Africa, Sri Lanka, Madagascar, Brazil, Australia, United States of America and India.

On the spiritual level; Garnet is associated with the root chakra, but also with the heart chakra. It is used to balance, purify, align and remove negative energy from all the chakras and aura. Various types of garnets have their own properties in addition to those of garnet in general may be related to other chakras as well. 

On the esoteric level, Garnet is used to encourage movement of the Kundalini. It is also considered a stone that helps one realize and enjoy the pleasures of earthly incarnations. This includes enhancing sensuality, sexuality, and intimacy in a balanced fashion. And therefore; Garnet is a stone of spirituality, love and passion. 

A string, a ring, a pair of studs or a bracelet of garnets gives a touch of class and mystery to a woman of substance!

Tanzanite ....The Sparkling New Gem

Tanzanite is a nascent coloured gem in the pantheon of sparkling gems this earth has given forth since the beginning of time. It is a relatively recent discovery.

It is found in just one place on earth: the hills of Merelani in northern Tanzania.

In 1967 a Masai tribesman stumbled upon a cluster of highly transparent, intense blue crystals weathering out of the earth in Merelani, an area of northern Tanzania.

In the words of the African Tribesman:

"I found the Tanzanite in Merelani, Arusha, in the area called Kiteto at the beginning of January 1967. I was on my way to visit some of my relatives who live in Kiteto, when walking through the bush I saw some crystals of a blue mineral lying on the ground. They were very nice… They were blue, some were transparent… In a few hours I collected about 5 kg — they were all very lovely blue crystals."

Ever since the tribesman; Ndugu Jumanne Ngoma stumbled upon shimmering blue crystals in the shadows of Tanzania's Mount Kilimanjaro, it quickly became one of the most sought after gemstones of the world. Some credit is due to Tiffany & Co., who introduced it to the International markets with a lovely name that pays tribute to the beauty of the land of its birth. Tiffany understood that to call this glamorous gem by its mineral name, blue zoisite, would not do it justice. Hence the illustrious jewellery company named it TANZANITE; after its birth country Tanzania. 

Almost overnight, Tanzanite was popular with leading jewellery designers and other gem professionals, as well as with customers who had an eye for beautiful and unusual gems

Today Tanzanite is available in a variety of shapes and sizes, but cushion and oval cuts are most common.   

Rarely pure blue Tanzanite almost always displays overtones of violet. In smaller sizes, paler tones are more affordable.  It tends toward lighter shades of lavender and periwinkle, while in sizes above ten carats; Tanzanite can show richer, more intense blue colours.

Although it's a newcomer to the gemstone industry, Tanzanite has quickly become one of the most popular coloured gemstones

The instant popularity of this transparent blue to violet to purple gem was tied to its vivid colour, high clarity and an affordable substitute to blue sapphire.

In the jewellery collection of a woman who has a keen penchant for gems; Tanzanite makes a serious statement in her collectibles. 

Tsavorite ......The Green Beacon Of The Black Continent

Africa! The black continent from whose very womb humanity was born. This continent is the life giver of the globe. When humanity migrated to other parts of the world; humans carried with them their meager belongings and the cache of knowledge passed on to them by their ancestors. Among such knowledge was the awareness of precious gems. 

The "tone and slap" sounds of the djembe drums wafted through the arid landscape of the Maasai Mara of Kenya and the Serengeti of Tanzania into the mountain ranges of Mt. Kenya and Kilimanjaro of Tanzania adding magic to the lustre of the luminous Tsavorite gems found in the bosoms of these grasslands and  mountains. 

The shining green Tsavorite is a young gemstone with a very long geological history. Its home is the East-African bush land along the border between Kenya and Tanzania. The few mines lie in a uniquely beautiful landscape of arid grassland with bare, dry hills. It's dangerous country, the habitat of snakes, and now and then a lion patrols, on the lookout for prey. There, near the world-famous Tsavo National Park, that history began.

In 1967 a British geologist by the name of Campbell R. Bridges was looking for gemstones in the mountains in the north-east of Tanzania. Suddenly he came across some strange, potato-like nodules of rock. It was like a fairy-tale: inside these strange objects he found some beautiful green grains and crystal fragments. A gemological examination revealed that what he had discovered was green grossularite, a mineral belonging to the colourful gemstone group of the garnets, and one which had only been found on rare occasions until then. It was of an extraordinarily beautiful colour and good transparency. The find made the specialists sit up and take notice; Tiffany & Co. in New York also soon showed an interest in the newly discovered green jewel. However, in spite of all efforts, it was not, at the time, possible to export the stones from Tanzania. But Campbell Bridges was not one to give up easily. As a geologist, he knew that earth strata bearing gemstones were not necessarily limited to one particular area, indeed that they could extend over much greater areas - and in his opinion the stratum he had found was just such a one. For the rock belt in which most of East Africa's gemstone mines lie is very ancient. It began to form many millions of years ago, while the continents were still very much on the move. At that time, the area concerned had actually been under the sea. The sediment deposits between the continents were greatly compressed and folded as a result of the movement of the massifs. Through tremendous pressure and at high temperatures, the rocks which had been present originally were transformed. New, exciting, beautiful gemstones came into being - among them the Tsavorite. Having said that, the tremendous forces of Nature damaged most of the crystals so badly at the time of their formation that today it is usually only grains or fragments which are found.

Campbell B. Bridges persevered. His surmise that the seam bearing the gemstones might possibly continue into Kenya finally put him on the right track. In 1971, he discovered the brilliant green gemstone for the second time, in Kenya. There, he was able to have the find registered officially and begin with the exploitation of the deposit. It was an adventurous business. To protect himself from wild animals, Bridges began by living in a tree-house. In order not to have any of the gemstones stolen, he set a python to watch over them, making use of the fact that his workers were afraid of snakes. It was a wonderful find. Unfortunately, the gemstone had been known only to specialists up to that point in time, but that changed quickly in 1974, when the Tiffany Company began a broad promotion campaign which soon made the Tsavorite well known in the USA. Further promotion campaigns followed in other countries, and soon the Tsavorite was also known at international level.

What is it that makes the Tsavorite so desirable? Well, for one thing there is its vivid, radiant green. The colour range of the Tsavorite includes a spring like light green, an intense blue-green and a deep forest green - colours which have a refreshing and invigorating effect on the senses. However, this gemstone is also valuable on account of its great brilliance. It has, like all the other garnets, a particularly high refractive index. Not without reason did they say in the old legends that a garnet was a difficult thing to hide. Its sparkling light was said to remain visible even through clothing.

A Tsavorite is not so likely to crack or splinter as a result of an incautious movement which is an important feature of this gem; not only when it comes to the stones being set but also in it being worn. It is well suited to the popular 'invisible setting', in which the stones are set close by one another, a technique which ought not to be used with the more sensitive emerald. the great brilliance  of the Tsavorite is, in this respect, to match the classics: diamond, ruby and sapphire.

Tsavorite adds an aura of nature's green glory to the delicate natural beauty of a woman. Combined with other gemstones; Tsavorite sparkles like the emerald in a jewellery ensemble. A woman's delight!