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Tuesday 26 July 2016

Jadai Nagam ...... The Braid Ornament





India is a country of unity in diversity. This is apparent in all its aspects of life. From food to clothing to traditions culture and even jewellery . Every part of the country has its own unique stamp on the Identification of India. 
Basically in India there always was a huge emphasis on the bridal jewellery. It was given as a security to the daughter and was, and is still called "Stree Dhan"
The bride was bejewelled from head to toe. Innovative pieces of jewellery were thought of and designed keeping culture, religion, good omens and primarily wealth in focus.
In the North the imprint of invading foreigners was found on the jewellery of the country. Whereas in the Southern peninsular the ethnicity, religion and culture of the original Indian people was obvious in the jewellery of the Dravidian people. 
The Southern Dravidian culture lays great emphasis on the tresses of a woman. It was in ancient times a sign of great beauty of a woman and a man who had a wife with these long tresses was considered extremely wealthy because he was blessed by the Gods. 
Young girls were carefully groomed by their mothers throughout their childhood to bear fruit of thick black long hair that touched either the knees or at least their waist; when they reached their youthful years and were ready for marriage; the long hair played an important role in the kind of groom and his family they would be married into. The longer the hair the more eligible the groom and wealthier the family he came from was secured by the girl's parents. 
The fact of the long hair holding a prime position for women in Dravidian culture is apparent at the Tirupati Temple of South India. This temple of Balaji or the "Kale Krishna" is the richest temple of India with the maximum devotees. The Temple Idols of Krishna and his consorts are encrusted with the most pristine and oversized emeralds and diamonds. The elaborate jewellery adorning the deities are all in diamonds interspersed with emeralds, rubies and sapphires and yet the greatest donation here is considered to be the hair of the women. When a wish was fulfilled, from time immemorial, women have gone to Tirupati to sacrifice their long tresses as thanksgiving. This ancient practice of the South of India has resulted in the most sought after and successful export of India; which is hair for wigs all over the world!
From this tradition of an ancient people it must be apparent how significant the Jadai nagam piece of jewellery must be. The  longer the hair the more elaborate and jewel encrusted would be the Jadai nagam!                

The Jadai nagam, of south India literally means the hair serpent. It is worn by brides to decorate the braided hair.
The rakkadi at the back of the head in the shape of the sun, symbolic of brilliance and power is followed by the crescent moon, evocative of calm and peace. The third piece is the fragrant thazhambu flower (screw pine)
Then comes the ruby and diamond-studded many headed divine cobra Ananta below whom are seen three rows of the cobra's coils. From here the jewellery for the braided hair starts. Designed in the form of flowers and buds; It consists of separate pieces interlaced to form a supple ornament. Towards the end of the braid it bursts out into 3 silk tassels held together by encrusted bells; the silk tassels too have undergone a change. Now they are done in pearls, gold chains or even diamond strings, depending on the expensive presentation of the Jadai nagam.
This unique bridal jewel was also adopted by the Devdasis or temple dancers who considered themselves the brides of the temple deity. This tradition has continued to this day when we see Bharat Natyam dancers wearing the Jadai nagam.                

Even today in the 21st century many Modern Indian brides wear the Jadai nagam. Keeping with the trends of contemporary jewellery the Jadai nagam is made in white gold encrusted in sparkling diamonds! To be worn with an entire diamond bridal jewellery ensemble.

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