Beautifully bejewelled and elaborate coiffure hair-dos were an integral aspect of the traditional shringar of the Female Form of Ancient and Medieval India. The proof of this lies in the frescoes of Anjanta-Ellora caves, the sculptures of Thanjavur and Khajuraho temples, as well as the oil paintings of Raja Ravi Verma.
The Central and Southern parts of the Indian Peninsular remained relatively untouched by the cultural influences of the marauding Islamic Invaders and hence the traditional jewellery of these parts of India maintained their original Indian uniqueness and flavour.
The hairdos of India make a statement of their own. When a woman is unmarried she sports the choti and on her wedding day the choti is decorated with different kinds of jewellery. From the Jadanagam, a piece of gem encrusted mesh like gold braid ornament snaking down the length of the choti to the Billai, a series set of nine round hair clips worn in descending order along the choti or braid. Each clip of the Billai is a unique gorgeous piece of jewellery.
The round disc like hair clip is made in solid gold or encrusted with rubies and emeralds in floral or mosaic patterns. The disc is bordered off with a line of pearls to offset the jewelled crimson of the rubies and the passionate green of the emeralds. All nine clips are a mirror image of each other masterfully created in the descending order.
The Billai itself is a precious and pricey jewel of the ‘Stree Dhan’ of the Bride.
In South India and Maharashtra the bride does not cover her head with a veil or odhani so in keeping with the mandatory use of elaborate jewellery for the wedding; a great deal of emphasis was laid on the Jooda or hair bun and its bejewelled appearance.
The Jooda or hair-bun also known as the Amboda in Maharashtra and Khopa in Bengal; was styled in different ways and had typical regional influences on the various ornaments that decorated them.
There are several kinds of authentic and unique pieces of jewellery adorning the bun and head.
The Ardh- Chandra ornament is a semi-circular piece fixed to the Jooda. The overturned crescent part of the ornament is encrusted with rubies diamonds and emeralds set in gold. At either ends of the semi-circle hang two small jewelled Jhumkas suspended by chains of gold and pearl strings. The diamond encrusted cups of the Jhumkas have dangling from within them, pearl and gold chains ending in Ruby or Emerald droplets. To compliment this jewelled Jooda on either sides of it fixed to the hair are what you call Jooda clips or Chandra-Pech. These beautiful much smaller semi-circular ornaments are intricately designed in the same genre as the Ardh-Chandra. This sparkling threesome set of ornaments resplendent on the back of the bridal head demurely covers the otherwise unveiled bride.
Traditional South-Indian temple jewellery is basically crafted in gold with rubies emeralds and pearls. But in modern times jewellery karigars add a sprinkling of diamonds and sapphires to colour co-ordinate it with the wedding attire.
In South-India the Bridal Jooda is resplendent with the Rakodi a circular ornament fixed to the centre of the hair-bun. This piece of jewellery is a representation of the cycle of life. It is intricately designed and studded with precious rubies and emeralds in replica of the Temple Jewellery genre of the region.
Along with the Rakodi are worn two broach like ornaments fixed to the left and right side of the centre parting of the head; these pieces of jewellery called the Suryam and Chandrayam, symbolise the Sun and the Moon.
These auspicious ornaments are to invoke the blessings of the Gods. The Sun is for good health, brilliance and Power and the Moon for mental well being and peace. The cycle of life is only possible when these propitious blessings are bestowed.
The Suryam and the Chandrayam are in the same design as the Rakodi; intricately worked with rubies, emeralds and pearls all designed and set in gold.
All bridal Jooda ornaments are also individually used to decorate the bun when worn for other functions.
Dressed in a Benarsi or Kanjivaram sari with a bejewelled Jooda at the nape of her neck an Indian woman is a show stopper for any occasion!
Very nice information...
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