The Karanphool and Jhumka

The jhumka is a beautiful ear ornament with an exclusive Indian influence. It can be exceedingly elaborate or simple and dainty. The size of the jhumka varies from the obviously large to the modestly small. 

The jhumka is composed of two elements. A round disc called the karanphool which sits on the earlobe and dangling from it is an inverted cup or bell which is called the Jhumki or katori and together this ornament is called the Jhumka..

The Jhumka can trace its roots back to the desert kingdoms of Rajasthan. In a  parched desert region where flora is rare the conceptualization of this piece of jewellery was an expression of the beauty of verdant nature. 

Karanphool means a flower for the ear. The Jhumki or inverted cup symbolises the scarcity of water in this region and the two elements put together signify the sacredness of these two gifts of nature which are scarce in the desert. 

These two components of the ornament were detached and could be worn individually too. The Jhumki could be strung into a simple Bali while the Karanphool worn by itself. 

In Rajasthan the Jhumka is set in gold with uncut diamonds, rubies, emeralds and sapphires. Gold balls and beads are generally interspersed to offset the brilliant radiance of these precious gems.  Strands of gold beads strung in gold wire or thread attached to the top of the karanphool or behind it, are either taken around the ear to support the weight of this piece of jewellery or these saharas can also be pinned to the hair to minimize the weight on the ear. 

In various parts of India the Jhumka was generally crafted in solid gold. There is as always a spiritual essence to this piece of Indian ornament. It also symbolized eternal life with the blessings of spiritual awareness. The round disc or Karanphool, worn on the lobe is a representation of the Sun which is a life giver and hence considered most sacred in Hinduism and the hanging jhumki or bell symbolizes the intermittent auspicious silence of spirituality between the two rings of a bell. 

During the Mughal period the Karanphool and the Jhumki became one solid ornament crafted often in meenakari, and in gold embedded with uncut rubies, diamonds and emeralds. Also strings and bunches of pearls; the hallmark of Islamic culture, were attached to the Jhumka. The designs now took on common patterns of Islamic influence. 

The jhumka is a common thread running through the jewellery repertoire of India. Tiny Jhumkas in gold are also crafted for little girls to be worn at weddings and religious ceremonies  from a very early age. 

 Be it north, south, east or west the Jhumka is worn by all Indian women.

 Ballads and songs have been penned by poets romanticizing the jhumka as the cynosure of the lover's love lorn pinning. The jhumka is the all Indian feminine ornament adored by one and all.

Down the centuries the Jhumka underwent several transformations in design and shape yet it maintained its original ethnicity. Sometimes the Karanphool was replaced by a bejewelled petal or a filigreed leaf; and many a times the Jhumki had a precious ruby or emerald dangling from inside of the bell or cup.

In the twentieth century the Jhumka took on a chic contemporary look. It now was set in diamonds and other precious gems complimenting the colour of the ensemble worn by the woman. The dazzle of sapphires combined with crimson rubies or the irredescent sparkle of the the diamond coupled with glowing emeralds made a style statement of their own!

Whether traditional or contemporary the Jhumka is a unique ear ornament exclusive to the culture and style of India!