The Bali or Bala ......The Branding Ornament.

  

The Bali also known as a Bala is a ring ornament worn usually on the lobe of the ear and derives its name from the ancient Sanskrit word baali meaning sacrifice. This ornament in the shape of a loop or hoop in cheap metal; was used instead of thread as a strong 'marker' for branding livestock to show ownership or group them to be offered at the altar of the Gods of a particular master or tribe. 

This branding was also a practice of ancient tribes to mark their slaves and hence was worn by both men and women who were usually farm-hands and labourers working for a particular tribe or rich landlord or dhani.

The practice of using a Bali as a sacrificial or branding marker was abolished and it found its place in the jewellery repertoire of ethnic Indian people; henceforth it was cast in precious metals like gold and silver. 

The Karnavedha ceremony or earlobe piercing of a Brahmin male child is performed during theUpanayanam or thread ceremony. Later this practice was also relegated to the girl child and was not performed amid Vedic chanting or by a priest but by the goldsmiths who were experts at knowing the ancient acupressure point of ear-lobe piercing. Even till date when a child's earlobe is pierced it is done directly with a gold or silver Bali by the goldsmith. 

The tiny gold Bali is usually worn by the girl and then it is replaced by an ear ring of choice. 

There is a difference in design and style of Balis worn by young girls and women. The balis worn by girls are less ornate and lightweight so as not to be cumbersome for the girl.

For women the Bali evolved on the scale of weight and design. 

The Bali or Bala has been designed and crafted in many different ways. In the tribal culture it was designed in heavy gold with animal figures on the bottom arch of the earring while the rest of the hoop was etched in the flora of the forest.  Later as tribes got urbanized the Bali underwent a transformation of sorts. Now the Bali had a more modern look. They were of different shapes and sizes: round, oblong, elongated and tiny loops just touching the ear lobe. Solid gold tubing was used to make the Bali. The thickness of the tube varied according to the design crafted.   Many different craftsmen found this jewellery piece to be an expression of their creativity.  Some were just plain gold loops while others were heavily etched in patterns. Many had small gold balls and Pattis attached to the arch to add a touch of piquant to the piece. Unique patterns styled the Bali with a central beaded dangler of precious gems that moved within the hoop. 

The Mughal rule of India added its own touch to the Bali. Now the Bali had pearls hanging like a shower of dew drops from the bottom arch to give it a feminine touch. Many elaborate Balis were designed with tiny pearl drops all along the arch while some were studded with fixed pearls or precious gems along the outer rim of the Bali. To support this elaborate ear ring strings of pearls were attached to the top of the hoop which were then fixed into the hair. These strings were and are still called saharas which means supports.                                                

The Bali underwent further metamorphosis in the twentieth century. They were now as large as a bangle worn usually by younger women. These bangle Balis were in solid looking but light -weighted gold. Later still the Bali was studded with emerald rubies sapphires and diamonds, set either in gold or white- gold and platinum. 

It didn't end here the Bali made a comeback on the ear lobes of Men too! 

The Bali though with a history of ancient cultures has survived the onslaught of time and still maintains a place of pride and style on the earlobe of the fashion conscious Glitterati Set.