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Saturday 30 September 2017

Aad .... A Spectacular Ornament





Rajasthan which literally means the land of Royalty originally was a desert expanse with a large number of nomadic tribes roaming this arid yet rich terrain. 
Traditionally the wealth of each tribe lay in the jewellery worn by its women who wandered the desert through the seasons, tending their herds, working in rock mines, cooking and raising children all the while laden in heavy chunky metal and silver jewellery. Wearing wealth converted to jewellery has been an integral part of nomadic life in Northern India as these sections of humanity were constantly on the move.

 As the tribes warred for supremacy and got banded together under one chieftain or Raja; the birth of a new epoch dawned in Rajasthan...the era of Kings. 
Royalty now lived in magnificent Palaces and lesser vassals in opulent mansions called Havelis.

The traditional jewellery pieces worn by their wandering nomadic ancestors were retained in the cache of the Rajputana Royal Jewellery. Metal and silver gave way to a more precious element—Gold, and the traditional designs were now encrusted with valuable or priceless gems. 
Coupled with the royalty of the Rajputs, the tradition of their nomadic ancestors behind them and the influence of the new breathtaking Mogul jewellery  of India ; a unique visually striking piece of jewellery called the Aad or Timaniya was born. 


Originally the tribes who wore a basic version of the now sophisticated Aad attached a customary significance to the then called Timaniya which was that it taught the bride nuances of humility and the idea of bowing her head due to the rigidity of this necklace! 

The Aad is a massive gold necklace that is made of two elaborate components. The highlight of the necklace is a large curved pendant that goes around the throat with broad rims inlayed with uncut diamonds or tiny pearls on the top and bottom. This large pendant could also be called a choker. The pendant or choker could either be made of interlocked individual pieces or can be a single piece of rigid gold inlayed with rubies emeralds sapphires and uncut diamonds.
Below the choker is attached a bib or curtain like necklace- mesh that cascades all the way to the bosom. The size and extension of the bib can vary according to requirement.
The bib or mesh is an intricately patterned  masterpiece of gold interspersed with gorgeously dazzling precious gems in designs of leaves and flowers or geometrical angles. At the bottom of this elaborate ornament are hung huge droplets of either emeralds or rubies to add a spectacular effect to the entire necklace. 
Being an extremely heavy piece of jewellery the Aad is traditionally secured firmly behind the neck by two thick woven strands of resham doras ending in tassels of pearls attached on either sides of the choker.

The Majestic Aad was specially designed to satiate the opulent tastes of the queens of Rajasthan but later it formed a part of the repertoire of Rajasthani Bridal jewellery.  In today's world the magnificent Aad is also crafted in Polkis and Kundan.

The Rajasthani Aad is every bride's DREAM COME TRUE!



1 comment:

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