Chintak and Tirmani ..... A Hindu and Mughal Amalgamation

The seat of Power of the Mughal Sultanate of India was in the North. The Emperors held sway over the entire country from the royal citadels of Lahore and Delhi. 

The Sultanate deployed its Mughal governors and viceroys to rule and control different pockets in central and south India under the aegis of the Mughal Empire. 

To rule the state of Hyderabad in the Deccan a viceroy appointed by the Empire was deployed. Later after Aurangzeb's death  the viceroy declared himself to be independent of Mughall rule and established himself as the Nizam of Hyderabad founder of the illustrious Dynasty of the Asaf Jahs. 

Hyderabad was famous for the Golconda diamond mines and the Ruling family acquired unimaginable wealth in their treasury due to their control over these legendary mines.. The choicest diamonds, blood red rubies, columbian emeralds, Iranian turquoise and deep blue sapphires formed the the bulk of the jewellery repertoire of the Nizam's Collection. 

When the Mughal viceroy took control of Hyderabad his Begum brought with her from the Mughal Empire of the North a repertoire of Mughal jewellery and luxurious royal attire. 

Empress Noor Jahan had commissioned special Persian and Turkish designers and tailors to create unique noble attires for the Royal bibis of the Mughal Empire and the Begum of Hyderabad brought a few of these craftsmen with her when she shifted base to the Deccan. 

Now being a Begum of a principality far away from Delhi and Lahore made her no less than an Empress! 

She ordered the Nobel Attires to be modified by the craftsmen to bear an exclusive style that became unique to the State of Hyderabad. Thus was born the beautiful sparkling Khara Dupatta; six yards of gota ,zardozi and semi-precious stone embroidered gossamer cloth to be draped modestly yet majestically on the body of the Hyderabadi Begum and her Royal ladies.

To compliment this Royal Clothing, jewellery distinctive to Hyderabad was also essential, so consequently the Mughal Guluband was personalized into the Chintak. 

The Nizam Shahi Chintak like the Guluband is a collared necklace but without the Mughal bejewelled bib beneath. 

The Chintak is a-typical to the state of Hyderabad. It was created in Emeralds, Rubies, Sapphires, Turquoise, and Uncut-diamonds. The essential element in this Guluband is the use of Pearls both big and small.  

The collar is crafted in a maze of floral or geometrical designed gold base with precious gems studded within. To finish the Chintak it has a string of small pearls fixed atop the collar and dangling from the bottom edge are big pearl drops. 

The Aristocrat Chintak replaces the pearl drops with huge ruby or emerald drops. Interspersed in the design are uncut diamonds to lend this unique neck-wear a dazzling look par-excellence

Along with the Chintak in Hyderabadi Bridal jewellery is worn the Tirmani. 

Tirmani means a necklace of three(tir) gems(mani).  It is basically made from three different gemstones and is an  exclusive necklace studded with ruby, emerald and uncut diamond teamed with pearls to give it a royal finish. This beautiful Aristocratic Nizam ornament is a modification of the Hindu Mangalsutra. The Hindu influence of its subjects, on the Muslim Masters of Hyderabad; lies in this piece of jewellery.

Like the mangalsutra the Tirmani is a necklace of two or more strings on either sides of a central pendant which rests on the chest of the bride. When worn along with the spectacular Chintak; this twosome is breath-takingly awesome!

As is always; through the ages the Chintak and Tirmani came into the domain of the commoners. 

It was now designed in more affordable gold carat, gems and semi-precious stones with pearls that are less dear in value known as Hyderabadi Pearls. 

Even today in the Jewellery Markets of Hyderabad there isn't a shop that does not  proudly display their heritage of the Chintak and the Tirmani. 

These two ornaments are worn along with Kan phool or chandbalas in the ears. The Hyderabadi Muslim Bride is a show stopper, dazzling and sparkling in her traditional ensemble of Unique Khara dupatta, Chintak and Tirmani which is exclusive to her State in India!