The Bali or earring that loops the earlobe is an ancient ornament in the Indian collection of jewellery. The Bali underwent different changes at different times down the ages. The small Bali that hugs the earlobe as it grew in size and looped the earlobe without touching it was called the Bala. It was a thick pipe of gold designed as a solid hoop of different sizes.
With the Mughal Invasion of India five centuries ago, the New Rulers of the land added their own mark to the ornament repertoire of the country.
The Mughal royalty were connoisseurs of jewelry. During their rule, jewelry-making was given utmost importance. This fondness gave birth to unique jewelry pieces studded with chunky gemstones and enamelled with motif designs.
The Bala too underwent a change and was now redeveloped to include the Islamic influences of the Mughals.
The Islamic icon of the crescent moon was incorporated into the Bala.
The curve of the bala was turned into a replica of the crescent moon. This solid addition was a craftsman's delight! The designer played around with various motifs within the crescent.
Mughal jewelry being a marriage of Indian intricacy and Middle Eastern elegance; the now innovative Bala combined Indian gold work with Middle Eastern floral designs. These stunning earrings were beautifully crafted out of fine enamelled gold, laden with multiple large gemstones, pearls, and premium beads.
The floral designs within the crescent were encrusted with various glistening gems which were abundantly used in Mughal jewellery. Mughal craftsmen used precious gems like diamond, sapphire, rubies, emeralds, jade, polki, tourmaline and topaz in their ornaments.
The unpretentious Bala now turned into an elaborate ornament of Royal penchant! This new creative ornament was given the name CHANDBALA.
It truly was a breathtakingly beautiful ornament! The length and breadth of the hoop was extended as far as possible to make it a spectacular and sparkling ornament which could not be ignored.
The entire crescent on the bottom was strung with delicate rows or bunches of pearls to offset the radiance of the precious gems within it. Pretty strings of pearls were added to the top of the ornament ending in a small gold hooks to be pinned on to the hair. Some Mughal earring-strings were so long and thick that they almost covered the whole ear.
The Chand bala became a favourite with the Mughal Empresses. They sported this ornament at Dawats, Durbar appearances, Weddings, and Palace gatherings. It was basically a Royal Ornament because it was too pricey for the laywoman to own it.
Centuries later the Chandbala was again glorified in the movies made by Bollywood. And since the advent of cinema in India, Hindi films are a fashion trend-setter for the Indian-Subcontinent and its Diasporas all over the world.
Today the Chandbala is a favourite ornament worn by women of the Indian Subcontinent with their traditional attire.
The crescent hanging outwardly on either sides of the face adds glamour and joie-de-vivre to the profile of the woman who wears it, making them as alluring as the Mughal Empresses of Yore!
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