Kundan is an art of jewellery making that flourished under Royal Patronage of the Mughalls in India. The process through which precious stones, gems and beads were set on the gold ornament was known as Kundan by the karigars of yore. Making kundan jewellery required great skill and a fine eye for detail. Hence this talent was like a precious heirloom passed down the generations of karigars supported by the Royals.
In the Mughal period this form of jewellery was extremely coveted by the Empresses and Princesses of India. When worn with their heavily zardozied gold and silver brocade wear with jewel colours to enhance the traditional garments; the Kundun became a mirror image of the finery. This Glittering Kundan jewellery assemblage complimented the heavily created antique garments called: Peshwaz, Angrakha- Churidar, Dhilja, Garara, Choga –shalwars, and Farshi.
Kundan jewellery is a painstaking art. It is created by setting carefully shaped, uncut diamonds and polished multicoloured gemstones into an exquisitely designed pure 23 carat gold base.The elaborate process begins with the skeletal framework. Thereafter, wax is poured onto the framework and moulded according to the design. Following this is the Khudai or "dig out" process of the wax, when the stones or uncut gems are fit into the framework. Meenakari or enameling is then used to define the design details. Next, gold foils are carefully fitted to hold the gems into the framework. Finally, the gems are polished to a glistening shine.
The art of Kundan jewellery from the Mughal courts then travelled to the Palaces of the Rajput Royalty who were close collaborators of the Mughal Emperors. Karigars from Delhi were taken to the desert kingdoms.
In Rajasthan Kundan flourished to a greater degree. The vibrant colour traditions of the Desert Kingdoms was just the platform this art form needed to come alive! The women of the Royal Rajput Clans were besotted with this kind of unique jewellery that could blend beautifully with their colourful Leheria and Bandhej Gota-work Odhnis, Ghagras and Saris.
Besides the original work of precious gems being used in Kundan it now saw an innovate concept whereby the gems were replaced by vibrant rani-pinks, purples and yellows in glass. Crafted like gems these glass stones were added to gold to create a kaleidoscope of colours and affordability.
The Kundan had now emerged from the Palaces of Kings and the Gharanas of the Dhani to glitter among all people.
Much before the creative concept of the Chandelier Earrings the Kundan earrings of Indian origin saw a leap in design and concept. The designers and karigars of Delhi and Rajasthan floated the KUNDAN JHALARS into the Indian Jewellery Markets.
These were long length Earrings short of touching the shoulder that looked like sparkling edgings called Jhalars used in traditional Indian clothing. Because of their cascading effect, these Kundan earrings are equated to ornate hangings called Jhalars.
These Jhalars gave the karigars a large canvas to work with. All kinds of intricate designs of flora and fauna coupled with traditional ancient Mughal and Rajasthani Hindu influences found themselves crafted into this exceptional ornament.
Though the trend of the day is the Chandelier Earrings but the Kundan Jhalars maintain their own traditionally ethnic mark on the Repertoire of Indian Jewellery.
Kundan Jhalars are an integrals part of the Bridal Jewellery of India and because of its strong traditional appeal it is an ornament that is here to stay!
